Cherries

There are many varieties of cherries in an array of sizes and colours, all of which fall into one of two categories; Prunus cerasus L. which are tart cherries and Prunus avium L. which are sweet cherries.

Depending on the variety, cherries are a great source of antioxidants and  anti-inflammatory compounds which work towards reducing oxidative stress which links to multiple chronic diseases and premature aging.

154g / a cup of cherries has the following nutritional value:

97 calories, 2g protein, 25g carbs, 3g fibre, 18% RDI vitamin C, 10% RDI potassium.

 

Cherries are a versatile fruit for growing, just choose the right variety for the space and situation you’re planning to grow your cherry tree in.  

Sweet cherries are ideal for eating fresh from the tree and can be grown as small open trees, in large pots or trained against a wall or fence in a fan formation. You will need to check the if the variety is self-fertile or will need a secondary tree to pollinate.   

The tart or acidic cherries will need cooking to sweeten the flavour. Try cooking them down into  jams and preserves.
They do best in a north-facing wall, tolerating some shade and as they are self-fertile they will not require a pollinator partner.

 

Cherries should be planted from November to March and into fertile and well-drained soil with PH 6.5-6.7, making sure to dig a deep hole for the tree. Cherries do not do well in shallow or badly drained soils.

As mentioned above, the tart / acidic cherries can tolerate some shade in a north-facing location, trained in a fan formation against a wall or fence, but they can also be grown as an open tree. These varieties tend to grow less vigorously than sweet cherries, reaching about 3-3.5m in height.

Sweet cherries however are best grown against a wall in  a sunny location in the fan formation. This is due to the way sweet cherries are grafted onto semi-vigorous “colt” rootstocks which restricts growth to about 6-8m.

If you’re looking for sweet cherries to grow in a bush or small tree formation then look out for semi-dwarfing varieties such as “Gisela 5” and “Tabel”. They generally reach up to 3-4m and do well in containers.

 

 

Cherries will produce their beautiful blossom early in the year, typically around April, but this is dependant on the variety. The blossom is delicate so if frost is forecast make

 sure to cover the plant overnight with horticultural fleece and remove for the day.

Feeding the plants should take place during late winter with a high potassium general fertiliser, apply to the base of the tree to the amount recommended on the container. Once fed with fertiliser a mulch of well-rotted organic matter should then be added to the base of the tree.

When watering the cherry trees direct the water to the roots only, avoiding the leaves of the tree as this will limit the chances of disease. As with most container grown plants, they will require more frequent watering.

Formative Pruning

To maintain the shape and health of the plant pruning is required as well as maintaining a cycle of old fruiting wood and young replacement wood.
In the spring as the buds begin to open a formative pruning of sweet cherries should take place.

For tart/ acidic cherries and other fruit trees being trained into the fan formation 
It’s key to create the right balance of old and new wood on tart/ acidic cherry trees as they bear most of their fruit on the growth formed the previous season. 

Pruning Established Trees

Established cherry trees need to be pruned in August, removing one in four of the older fruited shoots, pruning up to a younger side shoot. Upright growth that is over-vigorous will cause crowding in the plant centre and therefore can be shortened to a suitable side shoot.

July is the key month for pruning established fan trained tart/acidic cherries. Thin the new shoots that have formed along the main branches to about 5-10cm apart, then tie the retained shoots to their supports.
Cut back any branches that are projecting from the walls or fences to about two leaves to create a flat tree formation. 
The current seasons growth should be tied back in late August to allow the branches to blossom and flower the following year and cut back the fruited shoots to a side branch that can replace the removed growth.

Spotted Win Drosophila

A relatively new problem in the UK, Spotted Wing Drosophilas were first reported in 2012 and are expected to be an increasing  problem.
The maggots of this fruit fly infests the cherry and causes them to rot.

The best course of action is to use traps and fine fruit mesh to protect the fruit as they develop.

Shedding of immature fruit and flower buds

Typically this is caused by low temperatures, waterlogged roots or drought and in some occasions bullfinches damaging the buds.

Once you have assessed which of the above reasons are causing the plant to drop its fruit or flowers, then either water more, reduce your watering, protect the plant with horticultural fleece or netting.

Silver Leaf

You may notice that the leaves are taking on a silvery sheen and when you cut a branch there is a red staining inside.  Sliver Leaf is a fungal disease caused by Chondrostereum purpureum and infects through wounds, mainly caused by pruning, usually in the summer.

If this is the case then prune from the end of June until the end of August or in early spring. Prune regularly but keep the cuts to a minimum so that cut surfaces are small.

Cherry Blackfly

Distorted leaf tips and shoots are caused by small insects sucking the sap. Although this does not affect the fruiting and can work as a form of pruning, it is unsightly. 

The best approach is to encourage natural predators to the small insects into the garden, such as blue tits. Blue tits are fond of eating sunflower seeds and hearts from the bird

 table as well as suet blocks hanging from trees, so keep topping up the bird feeders and you should see them in your garden.

 

Depending on the variety, you should see ripened cherries on the tree from early summer onwards. 

The fruits can bruise easily so it’s best to hold the stalk of the fruit when picking. The fruit should last up to a week from picking if kept in the fridge. 

                            

 

 

 

                       

 

 

 

 

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